glorious

Afternoon light.

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fun little peaks, in arctic conditions

It did hail a little just before I got out of the car to get changed, very squally wind, up to 40 knots. Wetsuits have come a long way I have to say, only the exposed extremities felt the bitter bite of the frosty air firing down from the Victorian Alps.

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weekend away

We spent a cold wet and windy weekend on Philip Island last week. It was great to get away from home for a few days and just relax ,and catch up with some close friends.

Had one little surf at Forest Caves, the first and only surf I have had on the Island (I’ve only made it there twice). Small swell with a strong offshore wind, not as cold as I might have anticipated. Very much winter on the Island though, apart from the lack of swell, 2 to 3 foot on the open beaches. I’ll be back there in Summer I think, have only ever seen the place cold, wet and grey!

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new board has landed

Yep, it’s here, STOKED! Looks so nice, and challengingly different, I can feel a learning curve coming on…

5′10 x 18 3/4″ x 2 1/4″ V1 afterburner (channel bottom). Custom shaped by Daniel Thomson in Lennox Head NSW. http://www.tomosurfboards.com/

Tomo was a pleasure to deal with, and produces a quality, innovative product, there’s no reason to buy a “pop-out” support the grass roots of surfing while it’s still with us!

I’ll be sure to review the board once I get a surf on it and look forward to seeing where it takes me and my surfing.

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afternoon glass

Got a little arvo glass yesterday, really nice little waves. Started at “the gap” and ended up paddling all the way down to guvo’s, surfed a few banks along the way and got a few little gems. The right at govo’s was working pretty well as the tide dropped, a little shifty but that could be attributed to the lump in the swell. A nice little glass off session, with a little bit of fitness coming back and ending with the numb fingers that tell you it’s time to get out of the water – mid winter.

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anywhere else

If I could be anywhere else right now, this would probably hit the nail on the head – via http://theswallowtailsociety.tumblr.com

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Greener pastures

The wave I would have been better off surfing today, than the one I actually did…

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Mind surfing

When a surfer looks at a wave, they mind surf, “bottom turn, off the top, hook in the pocket – would I make that section? Floater through the close-out”. It’s the gauge of how good the session might be, the deciding factor in paddling out, or driving further down the coast, or even calling it a day. The optimist is often drawn out when conditions are less than favourable, and we’ll often talk ourselves into a surf that on first inspection, was maybe not worth the effort…

I did a quick surf check this arvo while I was out and about, and if I had time I probably would have talked myself into this micro left bank that was reeling off. I have always thought it was good for your surfing to surf small waves, it makes you work for everything and be in the right place at the right time, to extract what minimal power is available.

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Crisp mid winter glass

Nothing better than getting a few waves on the Monday after the end of the school holidays, it confirms we have our  beaches back to ourselves for a little while again. I think my form is improving a little too, not as frustrated as I was a couple of weeks back anyway. Fitness, better I think, still not good but a slight improvement from where I started.

5.15pm Eastern View

Winter is cold but I must say that wetsuits have come a very long way over the last handful of years.

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The late dash

Friday arvo, a quick splash before dark. Mid size swell, easterly lumps in it, strong sweep down the beach – lets call it a fitness session shall we?

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