I started writing this more than 12 months ago and never got to the point of publishing it. I think I have mellowed even more than what the below text reflects, or maybe it’s winter in Victoria and 99% of the character types mentioned are taking their winter break from surfing so I don’t have to deal with them at the moment…
In general a good time for waves, Rippy pro and all. We are right into the thick of it now and conditions have been fun, light wind and a little swell, not epic by any proprtion but good fun. Nice to say good bye to summer surf and hello to some quality. Hope it keeps up!
Pretty amazing footage, it had me in right away. I am sure this is what George Greenough was looking for way back when…
Brian Conley also has a wave submited in the Billabong XXL ride of the year, from 2 angles so you can check the POV and how it looked from the beach, very nice.