Tyler Warren – All Yew
Posted: July 29th, 2010 | Author: Luke | Filed under: General banter | No Comments »Serious talent, questions the modern surfboard design completely, or maybe Tyler would rip just as hard on a coffee table?
new board en route
Posted: July 28th, 2010 | Author: Luke | Filed under: General banter | No Comments »My new board is complete, should be on it’s way this week; should have it next week. I’m like a kid on Christmas eve!
anywhere else
Posted: July 28th, 2010 | Author: Luke | Filed under: General banter, Surflog | No Comments »If I could be anywhere else right now, this would probably hit the nail on the head – via http://theswallowtailsociety.tumblr.com
Greener pastures
Posted: July 18th, 2010 | Author: Luke | Filed under: Surflog | No Comments »The wave I would have been better off surfing today, than the one I actually did…
Mind surfing
Posted: July 13th, 2010 | Author: Luke | Filed under: Surflog | No Comments »When a surfer looks at a wave, they mind surf, “bottom turn, off the top, hook in the pocket – would I make that section? Floater through the close-out”. It’s the gauge of how good the session might be, the deciding factor in paddling out, or driving further down the coast, or even calling it a day. The optimist is often drawn out when conditions are less than favourable, and we’ll often talk ourselves into a surf that on first inspection, was maybe not worth the effort…
I did a quick surf check this arvo while I was out and about, and if I had time I probably would have talked myself into this micro left bank that was reeling off. I have always thought it was good for your surfing to surf small waves, it makes you work for everything and be in the right place at the right time, to extract what minimal power is available.
Whats wrong with surfing?
Posted: July 12th, 2010 | Author: Luke | Filed under: General banter | Tags: life, surf | No Comments »I started writing this more than 12 months ago and never got to the point of publishing it. I think I have mellowed even more than what the below text reflects, or maybe it’s winter in Victoria and 99% of the character types mentioned are taking their winter break from surfing so I don’t have to deal with them at the moment…
Crisp mid winter glass
Posted: July 12th, 2010 | Author: Luke | Filed under: Surflog | No Comments »Nothing better than getting a few waves on the Monday after the end of the school holidays, it confirms we have our beaches back to ourselves for a little while again. I think my form is improving a little too, not as frustrated as I was a couple of weeks back anyway. Fitness, better I think, still not good but a slight improvement from where I started.
5.15pm Eastern View
Winter is cold but I must say that wetsuits have come a very long way over the last handful of years.
The late dash
Posted: July 9th, 2010 | Author: Luke | Filed under: Surflog | 1 Comment »Friday arvo, a quick splash before dark. Mid size swell, easterly lumps in it, strong sweep down the beach – lets call it a fitness session shall we?
What are you looking for?
Posted: July 8th, 2010 | Author: Luke | Filed under: General banter | No Comments »What are you looking for in surfing? Have you found it? Has what you are looking for changed over the years, I bet it has, and it will probably continue to as well…
What am I looking for?
Posted: July 6th, 2010 | Author: Luke | Filed under: General banter | 2 Comments »Time for a new board (as mentioned), didn’t want to go any more “Fishy” and reduce performance potential, and I couldn’t come at going back to a performance short board (although I won’t rule that out ever happening). I am looking for an alternative, yet progressive – not regressive, feeling in my surfing. I am chasing feel, fun, and progression in a mature, free-surfing direction. I want to see and feel new sensations, explore the potential of alternative surf craft but in a very targeted manner. If I find myself on a board that goes worse than anything previous, I’ll be quick to move on.
I’ve never surfed in a competition and I doubt I ever will, I understand the drive behind competitive surfing and the industry it has supported and in some ways, justified and delivered to the masses, yet this is not what surfing is to me.
Surfing to me is; waves that are better than expected, shared amongst a few friends (or even random surfers that happen to be on the same page), getting as much joy out of seeing your buddies score, as scoring yourself. Those unexpected moments, that provide bursts of clarity and beams of shameless joy. In the selfish pursuit, of the pure self indulgent pleasure, that is surfing.
What are you looking for?
